Choosing a Shower for Your New Bathroom Installation

When you’re looking for an electrician Brisbane Southside, it can be difficult to choose the right one.

Shower types

Bath Mixer Tap (with a Hose & Shower Head)


  1. Low cost as no other shower system is required
  2. Economical because there zero connected extra plumbing related expenses e.g. recessing supply pipes to the wall


  1. Undesirable heat adjustment on account of the low level
  2. Arguably cheap looking
  3. Hoses occasionally don’t reach up sufficiently to deal with tall individuals
  4. Is only able to be installed over baths, actually in shower enclosures

Manual Shower Mixer Valve

Mixer showers are usually termed such as as result of how they combine the hot and cold water sources (inside of a valve) before it is available at the shower head. They depend on a person to alter the shower temperature level when variances in water pressure trigger temperature changes.

They can be purchased as surface mounted bar mixers, and in the form of concealed valves (read thermostatic mixer showers in this article for examples – they look the same but function a little bit differently.)

Some types may be fitted with uncovered chrome pipes rather than recessed pipes, making retrofitting these kinds of showers simpler and easier in several applications.


  1. Temperature level and flow correction is simpler because the controls are more accessible when compared to bath fillers
  2. May be fitted on mains fed or gravity fed systems, so long as the pressure from the hot and the cold water arrive from a source performing at the identical pressure – otherwise, a pressure balanced mixer valve should be mounted.
  3. Are able to be fitted with a pump on gravity fed systems to improve water flow


  1. In many instances these unites are higher priced to fit given that the supply pipes (hot + cold) should be recessed within the wall
  2. A mixer shower doesn’t amplify the flow of water within your system.
  3. If your water comes out of your taps at an inadequate rate, it’s the rate it’s going to supply the shower.
  4. When any other water is utilized in your home, the shower will be impacted – this might lead to scalding


Invest in a thermostatic mixer instead for safety measures & an uninterrupted showering experience.

Power shower

This product is a lot like a thermostatic mixer shower in that it combines hot and cold feeds, but it does so by using an integral pump – hence the need for a power source.

CAUTION: All electrical work in bathrooms must be done by a capable electrician, who can self-certify the work carried out through their trade body e.g. NICEIC.


  1. Provides a fantastic shower experience with a great deal of water pumped out


  1. Pricey shower units
  2. High-priced fitting, as plumbing & electrics are essential
  3. Sizeable flow rates empty cold water storage cisterns rapidly thus up-sizing may be required
  4. Uses a great amount of water due to the large flow rate
  5. Can only be connected to gravity fed systems since they require a reserve of water to pump from.
  6. Should not be used in conjunction with a combi boiler.

* The cold water tank shouldn’t be under 50 gallons if it supplies many outlets. A 25 gallon cold tank is appropriate for the shower alone.

Electric shower

This is not to be mistaken with power showers, these units act as instant water heaters, heating cold water that goes through them. For this reason, they require at least mains pressure of 1 bar, and a flow rate of 8 litres / minute.

They could be run off mains water (normally) or water out of a cold water cistern (requires specialist model).

Furthermore, they need a power source, which will usually require running a large 10mm cable right from the fuse box (via an isolating switch or pull cord) to the shower unit.

CAUTION: All electrical work in bathrooms ought to be done by a knowledgeable electrician, who’s going to self-certify the work performed through their trade body e.g. NICEIC.


  1. Can be installed together with practically any household water system.
  2. Temperature stabilisers establish consistent water temperature.
  3. Unaltered by boiler breakdowns so a very good 2nd bathroom alternative.


  1. Systems lacking phase shutdowns may scald the following shower user.
  2. Low flow rates when compared to mixer showers & power showers.
  3. Higher priced fitting, as plumbing & electrics must be present.


Decreased flow rates (particularly with the lower Kw rated models) in contrast to different shower choices can make washing shampoo from lengthy hair a laborious task, so use an electric shower inside a 2nd bathroom or en-suite as an arrangement to give you a showering possibility should the boiler break down (because it will be not affected).

Digital showers

Digital showers are essentially contemporary mixer showers that function by getting water from both the hot and cold pipes and combining it in a digitally controlled processing system to attain the wanted temperature level. (This unit can be located away from the showering area).

That water is next supplied to a shower outlet, either by body jet, hand shower, fixed head, or spray head at a steady flow rate as chosen by the consumer.

Digital showers may be un-pumped (to use with combi / high pressure systems) or pumped (to use along with gravity fed systems).


  1. Simple to operate – Flow & temperature are often controlled by a click of a button.
  2. Temperature preferences could be pre-set for different users.
  3. Wireless controls make it easy for showers to get turned on without ever leaning over baths etc.
  4. Can occasionally be fitted rapidly because of the remote placement of the processor box e.g. in loft.
  5. Can occasionally be quickly retrofitted as supply pipes are usually not concealed inside the wall behind the shower.
  6. Can be installed with virtually any home plumbing system.
  7. Gravity fed compatible models include a pump to boost flow rate (This is an excellent substitute to fitting a shower pump.)
  8. Eco options will allow restrict water consumption by reduction of the flow rate.
  9. Ideal for older people coping with arthritis who could have problems turning hand operated valves.


  1. Electrical installation is essential.
  2. Handling faults is going to be beyond the remit of most professionals mainly because of the electrical circuitry involved, so make sure you get a unit that has a long service contract period.
  3. More expensive units – count on paying in excess of £400 as well as installation.
  4. Wires and cables are needed (on non-wireless models) to link the control to the processor box.
  5. Wireless models may be afflicted by wireless interference.

CAUTION: All electrical tasks in bathrooms needs to be done by a competent electrician, who can self-certify the job performed by means of their trade body e.g. NICEIC.


  1. Might be a bit ‘plastic-y.’
  2. Might get significantly better value with an similarly priced thermostatic valve from my perspective.
  3. Expensive with very little real benefits and lots of electronic components to wear out!
  4. Read or heard various experiences of units being temperamental by professionals in the industry.
  5. Could be a more financially sensible possibility in comparison to installing a shower and a separate pump.
  6. I’d opt for an Aqualisa Quartz or Grohetherm Wireless if I could easily afford it.

Shower pumps

Shower pumps are often used to improve the water flow for the shower (or whole residence) in gravity fed systems (those that have a vented hot water cylinder) which gives a much better showering experience.

They are unable to be utilised along with high pressure systems like the combi boilers or un-vented cylinders.

When installing a pump, it is necessary to be aware that you may also have to upgrade the size of the cold water tank in the loft as it will empty quicker whenever the pump is being used. 50 gallons is ample for a single shower usage.

They are ordinarily positioned in the airing cupboard next to the hot water cylinder.

Many different types of pumps can be bought dependent upon the particular application.

Pumps are rated in bar which is the measure of pressure. The greater the bar rating, the larger the pressure.

CAUTION: An electric powered connection is essential and all of the electrical task in bathrooms must be carried out by a competent electrician, who can self-certify the work finished by their trade body e.g. NICEIC.

Electrical connections

The electrical connections for an electric shower are addressed by many restrictions:

An electric shower must be installed on its own circuit and never spurred from any other connections or equipment.

If putting in an electric shower in which there was not one there previously, an electrician will have to run a new supply from the fusebox to the bathroom – this may cause interruptions in the form of lifting floorboards and running cables into walls that could then need replastering & redecorating.

Make certain your consumer unit is capable of providing the current required – will need to be rated above 60 amps.

An RCD (residual current device) has to be fitted as, either a part of your existing consumer unit, or as a stand alone, interrupting the circuit for the shower. If you have a recently improved fusebox, then you definitely should be able to utilise this, alternatively it may be worth installing a brand new consumer unit.

Connection to the consumer unit should be through a MCB (miniature circuit breaker). Fuse, switch, and cable ratings are additionally crucial and a 10mm cable can be used for many installations. This will make changing your shower less difficult down the road.

Different ratings of electric showers demand minimum cabling sizes supplying them.

Changing an existing unit vs cable size

  • Showers up to 7kw might carry a 6mm cable given that the shower unit is within 18 metres from the consumer unit. Fuses and switches need to be rated at 32 amps.
  • Showers up to 8.5kw may carry a 6mm cable provided that the shower unit is inside 18 meters from the consumer unit. Fuses and switches need to be rated at 40 amps.
  • Showers anywhere up to 9.5kw carry a 10mm cable to units within 35 metres of the consumer unit. Fuses and switches need to be rated at 45 amps.
  • Showers up to 12.5kw should carry a 10mm cable to units within 35 metres of the consumer unit. Fuses and switches need to a rating of 50 amps.

In all cases, the circuit of the interrupted by using a double pole pull cord switch that has a neon on/off indicator and a mechanical indicator in the event the neon fail.

It is important, in every case, that the shower supply pipes are independently cross bonded to ground.

Learn more about bathroom installations at UKBathroomGuru:

I’m Chris Martell, and I make a living designing, planning & installing beautiful bathrooms with my small dedicated team in Leeds.

I have always had a web presence with my bathroom installation and renovation business, but recently I chose to write and publish articles for all the people out there who I believe can benefit from my experience.

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